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Isobel Dress - adjusting the balance

Adjusting for a full bust:

- Check the Front Bodice pattern against your body.

- Note that there is 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance built into the shoulder & waist edge of the pattern, so make sure you factor this in.

- The shoulder of the pattern should be right on top of your shoulder.

- The bottom edge of the pattern piece should be well below your bust apex, sitting where you would expect an empire line to sit.

- If you think the bodice is not long enough, split the pattern at the dotted line “LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN BODICE HERE” & add length as required.

- You will need to split the sleeve pattern the same amount at the front only (identified by the single notch at the sleeve head & the upwards curve of the sleeve hem).

 If you have already sewn the garment up & notice that the front hem is hiking upwards, or the back is dipping, you can make the following adjustment directly to the garment:

- Before deciding how much to adjust, do the front ties up & make sure the shoulder seams are right on top of your shoulder. When the ties are undone, the garment can slip backwards on your shoulders & you will not be looking at the true balance of the garment.

- Decide how much to shorten the back bodice by to balance the garment. I don't recommend adjusting more than 2.5cm/1"

- Trim this amount from the back bodice waist edge

- Trim the same amount from the back sleeve waist edge & blend at the under sleeve seam.