Isobel Dress - adjusting the balance
Adjusting for a full bust:
- Check the Front Bodice pattern against your body.
- Note that there is 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance built into the shoulder & waist edge of the pattern, so make sure you factor this in.
- The shoulder of the pattern should be right on top of your shoulder.
- The bottom edge of the pattern piece should be well below your bust apex, sitting where you would expect an empire line to sit.
- If you think the bodice is not long enough, split the pattern at the dotted line “LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN BODICE HERE” & add length as required.
- You will need to split the sleeve pattern the same amount at the front only (identified by the single notch at the sleeve head & the upwards curve of the sleeve hem).
If you have already sewn the garment up & notice that the front hem is hiking upwards, or the back is dipping, you can make the following adjustment directly to the garment:
- Before deciding how much to adjust, do the front ties up & make sure the shoulder seams are right on top of your shoulder. When the ties are undone, the garment can slip backwards on your shoulders & you will not be looking at the true balance of the garment.
- Decide how much to shorten the back bodice by to balance the garment. I don't recommend adjusting more than 2.5cm/1"
- Trim this amount from the back bodice waist edge
- Trim the same amount from the back sleeve waist edge & blend at the under sleeve seam.